Latest ODF News Archives

Service for Your Pet Safe System

The Pet Safe Pro brand has officially been retired and there is no dealer to help you with your service. So, if you have a Pet Safe Pet Containment System whether it is a Pro-TX Pro System or a retail version and you need service, we’re here to help you!

OREGON DOG FENCE SERVICES ALL BRANDS OF INVISIBLE FENCE SYSTEMS

We Service ALL BRANDS of Electronic Dog fences and Cat fences too that include the following brands:

PetSafe®, Pet Guardian®, Invisible Fence®, DogWatch®, Dog Guard®, Pet Stop®, Pet Stop®

For service areas outside our designated service area, a fuel surcharge will be added.  Oregon Dog Fence does often provide it’s Invisible fence, dog fence, cat fence, hidden fence, electric fence services throughout the Oregon area. 


Oregon Service Areas by City and Zip Code

(971) 205-2474

 

Don’t see your city or area code listed, call us anyway, chances are we service your area!

 

 

 


Ask about our great trade in pricing on Pet Safe Pro, Invisible Fence® and Dog Watch brands of pet containment. We are not associated with Invisible Fence®, but several of our veterinarian clients have traded in their Invisible Fence® and other brand systems for the technically advanced Pet Stop® Pet Fence System.

When you are ready to swap out your China made dog fence systems for the American made all digital (DM Technology) Pet Stop® pet fences, you will find our brand to be compatible with the Invisible Fence® and Pet Safe®, Am-Fm brand, including other pet containment products. This flexibility demonstrates a single example of why Pet Stop® is the most advanced and adjustable buried wire dog fence on the market!

Note: We also offer batteries and dog fence collars compatible with most industry-wide pet fence products for less! Click here to see the dog collars we offer and be sure to check out the compatible batteries including the new Invisicell Rechargable Battery for your Invisible Fence.

*Pet Stop® is a registered trademark of Perimeter Technologies. Invisible Fence® is a registered trademark of Invisible Fence Company, a division of Radio Systems Corp, PetSafe® is also a registered trademark of Radio Systems Corp. OregonDogFence.com is not associated with Invisible Fence® or PetSafe®

SPECIAL REPORT: Dangerous Virus Killing Dogs

 

Please click this link to read the report:  http://www.nbc12.com/story/23950879/special-report-deadly-dog-virus

What is Socialization & Why Does My Dog Need It?

Socialization-DogsYou hear trainers and dog people talking all the time about “socialization” and how it is important for the well-being of your dog. But what exactly is socialization, how does it work, and why is it so necessary for your puppy or older dog?

“Socialization” is the term used for the process of training your dog to be properly behaved around other people and animals, toward strange objects, and in different places other than your home or yard without fear or aggression. It is the fundamental learning process by which all puppies and older dogs learn the rules and regulations of the family and community in which they live.

Typically, a new puppy comes into your family between 8 to 12 weeks of age. At this point in his development, your puppy is going through what animal behaviorists call the “fear” imprinting stage. This means that any puppy is especially vulnerable at this time to finding certain stimuli particularly alarming, and will ingrain that fear into his personality unless you – as his pet parent – do something to alleviate the problem.

A good example of this is the puppy that gets swatted with a rolled-up newspaper when he has a potty training accident in the house. From this point on, that puppy might see the newspaper and the person who swats him as something frightening – even though the newspaper is not physically painful, it can be loud and scary to a little puppy.

A more dominant puppy might grow up to aggress against that particular stimulus – tearing up the newspaper at every opportunity, and never really bonding with the person who smacked him with it. Your more passive dog might resort to cowering in a corner or submissive urination.

Additionally, your puppy that is never exposed to other dogs or people won’t really learn the rules of long-established canine behavior. He might jump on any strange person in an attempt to get attention, or be so repressed he won’t be able to handle anyone else touching him. Your puppy might not understand that the dog in the dog park doesn’t really want to share his food – and so be open to attack and injury.

Puppies with issues like this can grow into fearful, aggressive dogs that attack anyone who comes in the yard, or who won’t let the veterinarian touch them for the annual exam. They can become the dogs with separation anxiety so bad that they tear up the house when you leave them alone.

Your job as a pet parent is to introduce your new puppy to different experiences, people, and animals. Just like the mother dog teaches her litter in a controlled environment, you need to be able to protect your puppy from anything that frightens him and slowly allow him to do more and more on his own.

With the right kind of training and proper socialization, your puppy can grow in confidence as he grows in size, and mature into the beautiful, friendly, happy dog you want him to be.

Teaching Your Dog Good Table Manners

Once your dog has learned the basic steps of good canine manners – to sit, lie down, stay, and come on command – teaching her not to grab for treats, not to snatch at food, and to accept her meals in calm way will help her become a welcome part of your home during family meal time.

The first step is to make her “Sit” before you give her a treat. When she sits, hold the treat in front of her nose for a few seconds, then say “Take it,” in a firm, yet loving voice.

Allow her to “take” the treat when she reaches for it.

If your dog grabs for the treat before you make the command, or she rushes at it where you can feel her teeth, hold the treat in your hand behind your back and DO NOT give it to her.

Have her return to the sitting position, and try again, repeating “Take it” as you hold the treat in front of her. Only give her the treat when she takes it gently in her mouth at your request. Like all training, you may need to work at this several time a day for a while until she understands what you want.

Repeat these steps EVERY TIME you allow her to pick up a treat or a bite of food from your hands.

When its time for her meal, training her not to rush the bowl and grab for her food is just good “table manners.”

When you are preparing the meal, make sure she “sits” and watches. Don’t allow her to crowd around, jostle you, or jump on you. Stop preparing the food until she sits calmly on command.

As you move the bowl to its normal spot, command your dog to “Sit” and go “Down.” Do not set the bowl of food where she can get it until she is in the “down” position.

Once her bowl is in its place, tell her to “Take it,” and allow her to eat. If she rushes the bowl before you give the command, pick it up, and ask for “Sit” and “Down” again. Only give her the meal, when she completes the task on your request. Repeat these steps EVERY mealtime.

Training your dog not to snatch and grab at her own treats and food also teaches her not to try to steal yours. Being able to comfortably eat a meal or a snack without having your dog misbehave, keeps your entire family – including your pet – happy and stress-free. 

Teaching Your Dog to Walk On a Leash

 

Basic Training, Part 6

Teaching Your Dog to Walk On a Leash

Dogs are not born knowing how to walk on a leash without pulling or straining. That is something you’re going to have to teach your new puppy or older, un-trained dog. For this exercise, most professional dog trainers don’t recommend using a retractable leash. Purchase a regular leash and collar or halter that gives you more control over your dog while you are training him.

Your first step is to get your dog acclimated to his collar or halter. Place them on his body and adjust each so that you can slip at least two fingers between his neck and the collar, and between his body and each strap of a halter. Make sure both are tight enough so that they don’t slip off the body or over the head, but loose enough to be comfortable.

Leave the collar or halter on him without removing it until he adjusts to it and feels calm sleeping and moving around in it. This may take a few hours to a couple of days, so patience is needed here.

Once he is relaxed, slip your leash onto his collar/halter and take him outside. Place your hand through the leash’s loop and wrap it around your wrist. This keeps your dog from possibly pulling it off your hand and getting loose.

Begin walking forward at a slow pace. If your dog refuses to follow you, hold a treat in front of his nose as you step off without allowing him to take it. Once he takes 2 or 3 steps, give him the treat and praise him. You may need to give a slight tug on the leash the first several times to get him to move, but a gentle tug is important. DO NOT pull. 

Continue with this until he is moving forward freely and looking for his treats.

This part of his training may take several days of consistent work for him to move freely on his own. Slowly take the treat away as he learns, but continue to praise him when he walks without that initial tug on the leash.

If your dog insists on walking quickly in front of you and pulling on the leash, immediately stop moving and make him sit. Give him a treat if he sits promptly. Once he learns that he won’t be allowed to take off on his own, and that he has to stay with you – and that there is a reward in that behavior – he will start walking at your pace.

Remember, consistency is the key here. You MUST train him the same way every time or you’ll have a dog that pulls and tugs when you walk him. That type of uncontrollable pet is a danger to himself and to other people and dogs on the street. 

Summer Temperatures – Prevent Heat Stroke

 

Summer means vacation! Whether you’re really planning a trip, or it’s just a vacation of the mind, you’ll want to consider a couple things before all of the fun begins! If you have a pet or pets (which, we’ll assume that you do because you’re reading this) you’ll need to remember a couple things to make their summer an enjoyable time too.

§  Let’s go for a ride!

This phrase has a euphoric affect on my cat. Our cat loves to lay across the dashboard and peer at where we were going while enjoying the view, the sun, and the air conditioner! What wonder…all of her favorite things!

Take into account however, that when you take your pet on a road-trip. That cars can increase in heat very quickly. Make a rule never to leave you pet in a parked car. If you make a standard rule, you’ll be far likely to break it. And if you never break that rule, you’ll never have to live with the regret that you caused your own pet harm. On a cool day, the sun can raise the temperature of the interior of your car 120o in just a matter of minutes. Even with the winds rolled down, if there is no air ventilation it will still get too hot for them!

§  The 80o Rule.

Whether inside or outside, realize that this key number will save your pet a lot of grief! Keep this number in your head always, and when you realize that the temperature is getting a little warm, do something about it. If you’re outside, find your pet shade and something to drink. Be considerate of them, they deserve it!       

If you’re planning on leaving your house for more than a couple days, you might consider changing the thermostat setting before you leave. Consider, though, your cats needs before you change it. Cats do not have very efficient cooling mechanisms. In the wild, when a cat doesn’t like something or a temperature, they will move. If you cat is shut up in your house, they will not have the ability to change their environment. Remember that anything over 80o  will be uncomfortable for your cat.           

§  Keep ‘em Moving!

Also, remember to leave access to different parts of your house for their comfort. On a normal day, your cat will change position to find a sunny at a window, or sit on the tile in the bathroom to cool off. Give your cat access to your house. This will allow everyone concerned to truly enjoy the time off.

§  Protection!

As much as you consider protecting your own skin from overexposure to the sun’s harmful rays, consider that your pet may need protection as well. If your pet has short or light colored hair, their skin can be damaged by the sun much in the same way that you can be. They can suffer from sunburns, peeling and ultimately cancer.

§  Water, Water, Everywhere!

One of the few ways that we have to cool our bodies is through water. We drink it to cool ourselves and to properly hydrate ourselves, so that we can release water in ways to cool our bodies. Keep water available. If you’re going go away, have plenty of water sources available! Keep a little water in your sinks, extra water bowls around.

§  Be aware of heatstroke!

If for some reason, you realize that you might have missed a couple things, or maybe you had an emergency and had to leave quickly look for these symptoms when determining if your pet needs attention for heat stroke.

  • Body temperature of 104-110F
  • Sticky or dry tongue and gums
  • Dark or bright red tongue and gums
  • Staggering
  • Seizures
  • Bloody diarrhea or vomiting

 

Beat the Heat

Alerts are rampant now about the risks of summer for pets.  It’s easy to tune out a barrage of messages on the same topic, but please do scan these alerts.  At the very least it can help avoid a small problem; at most it can save a life.

  • NEVER leave pets in a parked car.  Not even with the windows cracked or fan going.
  • Provide ample shade outside, and always have plenty of cool, fresh water available. 
  • Limit exercise on hot days.  Best to do it early morning or late evening.
  • Avoid hot pavement.  If you wouldn’t walk barefoot on it, your pet shouldn’t either.

Currently, there is not a statute in Oregon or Washington prohibiting leaving an animal in a confined vehicle.  Sadly, only 14 states have these laws in place.  Worth noting:  among states lacking such laws, many do have local ordinances prohibiting the practice.  And, even without a state or local law, the practice can still constitute cruelty.  Breaking into a vehicle to reach a suffering animal is against the law except in some states, and even then, only a humane officer, law enforcement or rescue personnel are authorized to do so.  If you see an animal left alone in a car, note the car’s color, model, make and license number.  If it’s a store lot, have the owner paged inside.  If no response, call humane authorities or the police.  Have someone keep an eye on the animal and do not leave the scene until the situation has been resolved.  

 

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