Are you concerned about your pet's safety? Is you pet an escape artist, bitten by wanderlust, capable of scaling walls or fences, likes to dig or jump? Or, worst yet, likes to chase cars or try to bite the tires while the car is driving down the road?

You've come to the right place!

We been protecting pets for over 10 years now, and have customized systems on the toughest of properties. We've scaled a few walls too, work around pools, ponds, Jacuzzi’s….. even lakes and waterways. We've done it all, and we can customize our system to meet your needs while preserving your landscape. We know how costly landscaping can be and how destructive our beloved companions can be.

Whatever you need, we have a solution.

The Pet Stop Pet Fence System is true state-of-the-art technology designed to deliver our exclusive:

• DM Technology; no AM/FM signal here (no more worries about false corrections or signal degradation due to electronic gates or devices, even wrought iron)
• Wired or Wireless Indoor and Outdoor Systems
• Choose from our re-chargeable EcoLite Receiver; or our UltraElite and UltraMax Receivers
• Omni-directional antenna built-in to every receiver
• GentleSteps Training: safe, humane and effective to ensure a positive experience for you and your pet
• Cost Effective (you have control of your system, saving you time and money; no need for costly service calls to make adjustments to your system)
• FREE Batteries
• FREE Training
• Lifetime Warranty
• Money Back Guarantee

We encourage you to compare our local USA made product against any competitor product and you will quickly learn that our competitors just don't measure up.

When nothing but the best will do for your pets, give us a call and we’ll take care of the rest.

Tips and Suggestions for Winter Paw Care

If you live in an area with a lot of ice and snow during the winter, or even if you live in a more temperate climate, it only takes a few, simple steps and suggestions to keep your dogs’ paws’ and nails well-maintained during cold weather.

Try clipping your pet’s nails on a monthly basis. Get your dog acclimated to having her feet handled by running your fingers over and under her toes and paws as she is relaxed and sitting by you, or just before she falls asleep. Make sure to separate the toes and trim just the tip every time, so that you don’t cut down into the vascular “quick” of the nail causing her pain and bleeding. If you trim the tips on a regular basis, the nails will never grow long enough to twist the toes or cause her distress.

If your dog is out in the snow or rain, dry her feet with a soft towel whenever she comes back in. This not only keeps her from tracking dirt into your house, but prevents her from slipping on linoleum or hardwood floors and removes any moisture that can remain between the pads and cause possible fungal infections. While drying her feet, you can also check for any cuts or abrasions caused by ice.

Trim the hair between her paw pads and her toes regularly so that ice and snow don’t get trapped there and create cuts and sores. If you find ice in the hair, place her feet in a tub or bowl of warm water to melt it, and gently dry with a warm towel. You can also use a hand-held hair dryer set on medium to get rid of the ice.

Watch for signs of frostbite on her paws and toes. If you notice changes in coloring ranging from red, inflamed skin to blackened areas, blisters, pain, or sloughing of skin on her extremities, she needs immediate gentle warming in a warm bowl of water and veterinary care. DO NOT rub her paws to warm them as any injured tissue can slough off and create more damage.

Dog booties may be your best preventive during snow season, if your dog will wear them. They can be purchased online and at most pet retailers. 

 8 Ways to Keep Our Pets Safe and Healthy

Like humans, the cold weather can affect our dogs in ways we might not imagine. With the cold months upon us, it is imperative that we take extra precautions to keep our family dogs warm, protected, and healthy. 

During the cold winter months, be mindful of the time your dog spends outdoors. Don’t leave your dog outside for extended periods and bring her in if she gets wet or starts to shiver. Shivering means that her body temperature is lowering and the first sign of hypothermia. 

When your dog is inside, allow her to sleep on warm blankets or pads if she stays in a crate or on uncarpeted floors. Keep her bedding and feeding areas away from drafts and take her to a veterinarian if you notice any symptoms of respiratory illness, such as coughing, sneezing or a runny nose. Just like humans, dogs can get colds. 

Supplemental heat sources can burn your dog if you don’t take precautions. Portable heaters should be kept out of her reach, and all fireplaces need to be screened so that she doesn’t get injured by flying ashes. 

Keep her well groomed so that her healthy fur helps insulate her against the cold. Short-haired dogs – or those with coarse coats – have a tendency to feel the cold more than long-haired breeds, so consider purchasing a sweater or coat for your pet to wear when outside. If she gets wet from the rain or snow, use a blow dryer set on medium heat or a towel to dry her off. 

Make sure the hair is trimmed from around her toes and foot pads to facilitate snow and ice removal. You will need to rinse her feet with warm water if she walks on any rock salt used to melt the ice on sidewalks. Rubbing a small dab of petroleum into her pads softens them and prevents cracking in the dry cold. 

If your pet spends a lot of time playing outdoors, or is a working hunting or herding dog, plan on feeding her more calories during the cold weather to keep her body temperature regulated. It takes more calories in cold weather to stay warm for animals as well as humans. Also provide plenty of fresh water. Licking ice or eating snow do not compensate for a lack of water. Dehydration and a lowering of her core body temperature will result. 

Keep your dog away from any suspicious liquids during the winter, particularly any antifreeze that collects on driveways or roadways. Although it tastes and smells good to dogs, the propylene glycol in antifreeze is highly poisonous and can send a dog into kidney failure within 24 hours of ingestion. 

Knowing these handy tips and suggestions for your canine companion can keep her safe and in good physical shape until spring. 

Dogs and Chocolate

How Serious Is The Risk?

Most dog owners know that chocolate can make their pets sick. But how serious is the risk? And what can we do if we suspect our pets have gotten into chocolate treats?

The reason chocolate is poisonous to dogs is because of a chemical compound called theobromine, related to caffeine and contained in the cocoa used to make chocolate. While theobromine causes humans to get a slight buzz from eating chocolate that lasts for a relatively short time, your dog’s body does not metabolize the chemical at the same rate. After 18 hours, half of the theobromine a dog ingests is still in his system creating problems.

Even small amounts of chocolate can cause diarrhea and vomiting in your dog. Toxic amounts can result in tremors, high blood pressure, hyperactivity, rapid heart rate, seizures, respiratory failure, and cardiac arrest.

So what is a toxic amount of chocolate for your dog? That depends on the amount of cocoa the chocolate contains.

Unsweetened baker’s chocolate contains about 10 times the amount of theobromine found in milk chocolate and more than twice the amount found in semi-sweet chocolate. White chocolate that is made with little to no cocoa had very tiny amounts of the chemical.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, one ounce of milk chocolate per pound of body weight is potentially lethal. And dark chocolate is potentially much worse. Merck reports that dogs have died having ingested as little as one-third of an ounce of dark chocolate per 2.2 pounds of body weight, and, at the least, have suffered serious toxic reactions. 

This means that 20 ounces of milk chocolate, 10 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, and only 2¼ ounces of baking chocolate can kill a 22-pound dog.

If you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate, you need to consider this an emergency and contact your veterinarian immediately. Your vet may suggest that you induce vomiting to keep as much theobromine as possible from entering your pet’s system — if your dog isn’t vomiting on its own. You can do this by giving a solution of one-to-one water to hydrogen peroxide down your pet’s throat, or having it swallow syrup of ipecac. If that is not an option, your veterinarian can induce vomiting in the clinic with a dose of intravenous morphine.

While there is no specific antidote for chocolate poisoning, your veterinarian will most likely want to place your dog on intravenous fluids along with drugs to protect the heart and limit any possible seizures. Getting immediate veterinary care can save your dog’s life.

**NOTE:  The popular cocoa shell mulches used for landscaping can also pose a serious risk to dogs if ingested. Because manufacturers of the mulch are not required to warn customers of the potential danger to dogs, there is no way to know if the mulch you buy has had the theobromine removed.

Basic Training, Part 4

Teaching Your Dog to Come

The final part of the basic training of any dog is teaching her to come when called. Whether she’s playing with her doggy friends in the dog park or you’re asking her to come get a treat in a quiet, dignified manner, getting her to immediately respond and approach you when you command is necessary for her safety and your peace of mind.

Once your dog is sitting, lying down, and staying in place when you ask, go back to attaching a long lead onto her collar or halter. Ask her to “Stay” as you would normally, then back away a few feet and stop, still holding onto the lead.

Call her name, saying “Come” in a kind, but firm tone, and give her a treat when she responds. If she doesn’t respond immediately, pull on the lead gently to make her come to you, then treat her.

At this point, ask your dog to sit, lie down, and stay, and you back even further away. Stop, call her saying “Come,” then treat her when she responds. Every time she doesn’t come when called, pull gently on the lead until she answers.

Continue training this way, expanding the distance between your dog and yourself with every session. You may have to reinforce your teaching by starting each new session closer than you ended the previous one, but that is to be expected. As in all other training, don’t spend more than 20 minutes at a time teaching your dog a new trick.

As you become more and more confident that your pet is going to listen and respond to every part of the “sit, down, stay, and come” routine, you can begin to remove the lead and train without using it. Don’t attempt to take off the lead unless you are in your home, a fenced yard, or you have installed an in-ground dog fencing system and you know your pet cannot get away from you. 

Basic Training, Part 3 - Teaching Your Dog to Stay

Now that your dog has learned how to sit and lie down when asked, teaching her to stay in one place without moving can provide you a measure of security that she won’t run off when she’s out in your yard, and she won’t be grabbing for her food dish when it’s time for dinner.

Attach a long lead, one that is approximately 15- to 20-feet in length, to your dog’s collar or halter.

Command her to sit, then lie down in front of you, and make sure all of her attention is focused on you.

Once she is lying down, put the flat of your hand in front of her face in a “stop” gesture, and say the word “Stay,” in a kind, yet firm tone.

Back slowly away from your pet, keeping your hand in the “stop” gesture until you are standing approximately 2 to 3 feet away from her. If she stays without moving, go quickly back and give her a treat. 

If she moves to come toward you, go back to your original position, ask her to “Sit” and go “Down,” and start over. Do not give her a treat if she moves.

Once your dog is staying at that distance consistently, begin to gradually move further away every time you command her to “Stay.” Remember to keep using the flat of your hand and the tone of your voice to ask her to pay attention to what you are wanting.

Train at each distance until she “stays” every time, then move away during the next training session. You may need to occasionally go back and repeat a training session at a previous distance as a refresher. 

As in the other training sessions, only spend 20-minutes increments teaching her this new command. Use her dinnertime to reinforce this training by not placing her food dish in front of her until she has successfully stayed in one place for 5 seconds. 

Basic Training, Part 2 – Teaching Your Dog to Lie Down

Once your dog is sitting every time you ask, teaching her to lie down on command needs to be next on your agenda. A well-mannered dog that sits and lies down on command is a dog that will not jump on strangers or grab at food, treats, and toys.

While holding a treat in your hand, ask her to sit, making sure her eyes are on your face and you command her full attention.

Hold the treat directly in front of her nose and lower your hand to the floor. Say the word “Down” in a kind, but firm tone as you drop your hand. You may have to kneel or crouch close to the floor to make this move effective.

At this point, your pet should lower her head and drop her shoulders to follow the treat. If she doesn’t, repeat the gesture using your vocal command, and gently push down on her shoulders with the other to show what “Down” means.

When she lies down, give her the treat and pet and praise her. Make this a consistent part of your training – ask, reward, and praise.

Allow her to get up, then repeat the “Sit” and “Down” commands until she is responding on her own. At some point, you can slowly begin to withdraw the treats when she begins to react without them.

Practice this part of your training every time you want to give her a treat. As when you were teaching her to sit, only pursue this part of her learning in 20-minute increments.